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I
estimate 40% of my time invested in this
particular painting will be in what I call
the "research phase". Hard to believe? As
you'll see, if less time is spent, I'll
surely have to redo the painting or spend
countless hours painting several images.
This is the phase some artists want to
short circuit or skip altogether. This
front-end planning will save time in the
long-run, make my painting experience
enjoyable, and will more likely satisfy
the client.
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Interviewing
the Client
I meet with my client in the same
location where the new art is to be
installed. I ask many questions about what
kinds of art they have already viewed,
what styles they like and don't like, what
colors they like and don't like, whether
they think they prefer a pure landscape or
one with architecture, whether they want
figures, flowers, or animals in the
painting, and who else may have input into
the planning process, etc. I also ask to
see the rest of their home to evaluate
other art that's hanging. This will
facilitate making something that will be
harmonious and not conflict visually with
the rest of their collection. As I ask
questions I can get a sense of whether the
client wants to control the painting or if
they are giving me total freedom. This
client made it clear that the latter was
the case.
[TIP:
It is extremely helpful to take a
checklist and clipboard for the interview.
That way you won't forget to ask anything.
Also pack a tape measure, notepad, pen,
and few other items to be
mentioned...]
Considerations
& Sizing Things Up
In this case, my client has a
semiformal living room, with new
furniture, and high vaulted ceiling in
their recently built home. The walls are
neutral cream, hardwood floors, some wood
furniture, and multicolored upholstery and
pillows. The room itself overlooks a
beautiful hillside landscape from a lovely
bricked balcony.
The
client helped me with some of the more
lengthy physical measurements. Clients
sometimes love to participate in the
process, no matter how small the task.
This is not always the case. (I knew from
creating other paintings for this client
that we worked well together.) I took
measurements of the spot where the
painting would hang, right over a small
sofa. Right away, I could see that a
typical horizontal painting would visually
flatten the open feel of the vaulted wall,
especially with the narrow sofa. So I
suggested a square or nearly square
painting for the space. This would
maintain the open feel of the towering
wall. We decided on the best finished,
framed size for the room.
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Next,
the most critical step is the color. I
asked the client if I could color match a
few things. I use Pantone and process
printing swatch books, both in coated and
uncoated versions (shiny and matte) to
match colors with. These resources are
compact, convenient, and easier to use
actual tubes of paint. I travel around the
room with books in hand matching all the
colors I can, categorizing as to which are
the most dominant and which are accent
colors. I even match the hardwood floors
and wood furniture. Since this was a new
home I also asked the client to make a
quick wall paint sample for me as well as
supply any actual furniture fabric
samples. She had both which was a bonus. I
could take these back to the studio for
further study. Try to do your color
matching during the day. Since the colors
in a room are dramatically effected by
times of day, you may even want to test at
a couple of different times.
The
next thing I do is take some reference
pictures of the actual room. I don't use
these for color as much as to remember how
things look. It is tough to trust so much
to memory. I refer frequently to these
photos when I want to think about being in
the client's environment again while
painting. Photos also reveal things I
missed when visiting the client, like
accent pieces or the fact that the drapery
material was the same as on their side
chairs. I shot photos of this room with
and without the lights on to see how the
room colors react to light changes.
After
all this effort, I may or may not use much
of the information collected. Armed with
this material however, gives me clues as
to which colors to avoid as well as which
to integrate into the final painting.
[TIP:
Instead of expensive printers' color
books, you can make your own color chart,
use a printed paint chart, or hang hole
punched wall paint chips from a
ring.]
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